Sea Bream broth Istrian Recipe

This clear fish broth is very light and has a very pleasant, delicate and mild fish flavour, it is very nutritious and incredibly easy to make as it consists of cooking fresh whole fish in plenty of water together with the onions, celery, bay leaves, parsley, carrots, black peppercorns and seasoned with sea salt, then strained and served hot with fillets of fish and some cooked white rice if desired.

This fish broth can be as rustic or as elegant and sophisticated as you want it to be, it is a very family friendly dish and perfect for any occasion.

It would be normally eaten as a hot starter, however, you can turn this clear soup into a bit more substantial main course by cooking some white rice separately and add it into a broth, and sprinkle some freshly grated Parmiggiano Reggiano (or Padano) cheese on top, which is a very customary thing to do along the Slovenian coast, where this type of soup is very much loved by the locals, cooked recurrently in the households and found on menus in fish restaurants (Ribja juha).

This type of broth would be most commonly cooked using fresh whole Sea bream or Sea bass, but other type of fish can be used like Red mullet, John Dory, Small red scorpionfish and similar fish that have a delicate flavour, and you can also mix and match the fish that you like and found available fresh when deciding to cook the broth.

Fish that is quite strong in taste and quite oily, like mackerel, for example, is not the best choice for the broth, also fish fillets are not particularly recommended (although you can use them for practical reasons) as they will give you a slightly blander tasting broth, and that is because the real flavour comes out of the heads and the bones of the fish.

Recipe for this broth is timeless, it has been cooked and loved by the whole family since I was very little and really does take me right back to my childhood when my family used to run a small fish based restaurant.

This type of fish broth would be cooked in large quantities as it is also a fantastic base to use for sauces and for fish and seafood risotto, as it adds bags of extra flavour.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• fresh whole sea bream, one big in size or a few smaller ones (total weight roughly between 400-600g), cleaned, scaled and gutted

• 1 medium onion, peeled and halved

• 1 medium carrot, peeled

• 1 fresh celery stick, washed (with or without the leaves on)

• 2 fresh bay leaves, fresh or dry

• 2 branches of fresh flat leaf parsley, washed (plus some extra when serving the dish)

• sea salt

• few black peppercorns

• extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling, optional

• white rice, optional

• Parmiggiano Reggiano or Padano cheese, freshly grated, optional

Method

Place sea bream in a pan or stock pot large enough to accommodate the fish lying flat (if using more than one sea breams they can overlap a bit but avoid laying them one on top of the other).

Add onion, carrot, celery stick, bay leaves, fresh parsley and a pinch of salt.

Add 2 litres of cold water and bring to boil.

Lower the heat and gently cook for about 1 hour with the lid partially uncovered.

Check occasionally so the broth does not boil too vigorously (this can break the fish into pieces) and skim off any scum if it forms.

Cook the rice as instructed on the pack, if using to add to the broth (a small handful of rice per person).

Carefully remove the fish from the pan, the use of slotted or unslotted turner spatula on each end of the fish will help to lift the fish out of the pan and place it on a big plate or chopping board.

Allow the fish to cool a bit to a manageable temperature.

Clean sea bream by removing the tails, heads, the skin and all the bones in order to obtain small fillets of fish.

Put the fillets in a dish and cover with the aluminium foil to prevent drying and set aside for later use.

Pour the broth through a fine strainer or sieve into another pan.

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Add previously cleaned pieces of fish (small fillets) back into a pan with a filtered broth.

Discard bits and pieces caught in the strainer or in the sieve.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with sea salt.

Ladle the broth into serving soup plates or bowls, sprinkle with roughly chopped fresh parsley, drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, add a small handful of cooked rice if desired, and serve hot, immediately with some fresh crunchy bread.

Just a thought

Freshly cooked fish broth will keep in the fridge for a few days in the airtight container and is suitable for freezing.

You can cook this broth using only the heads and the bones of the fish and use the fillets for a different recipe or make a second course with them.

Wine suggestion

Vino Bianco "Turno Belo" - Movia

White asparagus with hard boiled eggs Venetian style Recipe

This exquisite recipe is so easy and quick to prepare you can hardly call it a recipe. It consist of gently boiling the asparagus and dress them with oil, sea salt and pepper to allow the delicate and mild sweet taste of white asparagus to be fully enhanced and appreciated. Asparagus prepared this way can be served as a starter, main course or as a side dish and is a great meal for vegetarians.

White asparagus grow with the absence of sunlight which prevents the photosynthesis to take place and therefore stops the asparagus turning green in colour.

Back home, where I come from, on the Slovenian coast, this dish, (Beli beluši s trdo kuhanimi jajci / Beli šparglji s trdo kuhanimi jajci) among other asparagus dishes, is very popular during the fairly short asparagus season and the locals make the best of it.

My nona shared with me a very touching story about white asparagus. She very modestly confessed to me that when she was a little girl, her father was the first farmer in the village (Marezige), and the first in the surrounding area to grow white asparagus. She also told me the story that when the asparagus were almost ready to be harvested, he would guard them during the night as these vegetables were very precious source of income for the family and were almost never consumed for domestic use. Only a very small amount of the asparagus, the ones that broke during the harvest, were used by the family for cooking, and this was a real treat for everyone.

White asparagus were, and still are, more difficult and more laborious to grow, therefore they fetch a higher price when they are sold on the market. The asparagus would be taken by my great grandmother to Trieste, just across the border, a big port city with Imperial style cafes, and important theatres where a fairly high number of wealthy noble families used to live, families that could easily afford to buy this type of vegetable and appreciate its gastronomic use.

My nona also told me that the locals used to say that the white asparagus were so cherished they were considered to be vegetable fit for the queen.

Even nowadays, white asparagus, although more accessible, are still pricier compared to the green ones, and they are enjoyed as a “festive food” especially around Easter celebrations when they are in season.

There is a very close geographical proximity between my home town and the Italian region of Veneto, where this flavoursome and elegant dish is typical, (Asparagi bianchi con uova sode alla Veneta) and where in the foothills of the town of Bassano, and along the whole stretch of the river Brenta, the best, renowned, plump white asparagus are produced in terms of size and flavour.

I am sharing here this simple and very much loved family recipe which traditionally calls for white asparagus, and is a very much anticipated vegetable in the spring season. However, if you have difficulty buying them, then just use green asparagus, the dish will be equally delicious.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 1kg white asparagus (you can use green asparagus)

• 8 eggs, soft or hard boiled and quartered, sliced or chopped

• extra virgin olive oil (sunflower oil or a neutral tasting oil of your preference)

• sea salt

• black pepper

• red or white vinegar, optional

Method

First of all prepare the asparagus. Chop off the ends which are normally hard, woody and fibrous.

With the potato peeler, peel the asparagus starting from just underneath the tips.

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Place the asparagus in a pan with a small amount of boiling water.

Gently boil for about 10-15 minutes or until just tender. Test by inserting the tip of a small sharp knife into the end of the asparagus as this part takes the longest to cook. The cooking times will vary according to the size and thickness of the asparagus.

With a slotted spoon gently remove the asparagus from the pan and place them, one next to each other, on paper kitchen towel. Allow the asparagus to drain and cool.While removing the asparagus be careful not to break the tips, they cook quicker than the ends and will be much softer, if they do break, however, it is not the end of the world, they will just not look quite as nice on the plate.

Alternatively, you can steam the asparagus or cooked them tied in a bundle and placed upright in a tall pot with two thirds of their length immersed in cold water. Bring the water to boil and cook for about 10-15 minutes (the steam will cook the tips). Remove and untie the bundle.

Transfer the cooked asparagus and lay them on a serving plate.

Place the soft or hard boiled eggs on the top or between the asparagus.

Dress liberally with oil, sea salt and black pepper.

Serve with crunchy bread to soak up the juices.

Just a thought

You can use the water in which you cooked the asparagus as a stock. Just add the ends you cut off the asparagus and the peels and add them to the water, gently boil for about half and hour and strain.

You will end up with a delicious and delicate asparagus flavoured stock to be used for asparagus risotto, minestrone primavera or asparagus soup.

If you are not using the stock straight away it is perfect for freezing.

Wine suggestione

Collio Sauvignon DOC 2020 - Schiopetto

Green Asparagus Risotto Venetian style Recipe

Green asparagus risotto with its pale green colour, is elegant in appearance, sweet and nutty taste of the asparagus makes this classic risotto delicate, simple, and clean in flavour, but a surprisingly tasty rice dish. It is creamy and very satisfying. This risotto celebrates the best of spring vegetable, making it a perfect choice for a quick week night dish.

The preparation and cooking of this risotto is particularly simple and quick, perfect for just about any occasion. It covers informal and more rustic eating settings, where risotto is served in a bowl and eaten with a spoon, as well as more formal settings, where risotto can be placed onto big white plates with maybe Parmiggiano Reggiano shavings, which can impress your slightly more demanding quests.

Asparagus risotto is very popular on the Slovenian coast, where I was born and grew up, and this is no surprise as the Veneto (region in Northern Italy) is where the greatest variety of risotto dishes can be found, and is a short car drive from my home town.

Asparagus back home is a very much celebrated spring vegetable and used to make a lot of different dishes, minestrone primavera, asparagus frittata, cooked asparagus with hard boiled eggs, sautéed asparagus with scrambled eggs, just to mention a few. Very frequently the bought variety of asparagus would be replaced by the wild variety since like mushrooms, it is also found in nature (without any concern about poisonous varieties!), and is very keenly foraged by the locals during their pick season in mid spring.

As a child I have vivid memories going with my mother to the market and seeing beautifully displayed bunches of asparagus which were than purchased to make the risotto.

I am sharing here my mother's recipe for the asparagus risotto with which I grew up, she told me that when I was little I used to pile a substantial amount of cheese on my risotto, making a mountain of cheese, apparently, I loved it that way, maybe not so appealing now...

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 200-300g green asparagus

• 300g risotto rice (like Vialone Nano, Arborio or Carnaroli)

• 1 onion or shallots (about 80g) peeled and finely chopped

• 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 1 litre hot vegetable or chicken stock (you can use Instant vegetable or chicken stock powder)

• fresh flat leaf parsley, a handful (about 6g), finely chopped (plus some extra for garnish, optional)

• sea salt

• Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese, finely grated (about a generous handful or to taste)

Method

Before starting making risotto have your boiling hot vegetable or chicken stock ready to hand for later.

Wash the asparagus and pat dry them with the kitchen paper towel.

Cut off the tips of the asparagus and set aside.

Chop the stalk sections of the asparagus.

Put extra virgin olive oil in a pan, add finely chopped onions, a pinch of sea salt and sauté for a few minutes on a gentle heat until soft.

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Add chopped sections of the asparagus, not the tips, and cook for a few minutes together with the onions until they soften a bit and deepen in colour

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Add the rice and toast for a bit, stirring constantly to avoid sticking to the pan.

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Pour or ladle ½ litre (500ml) of hot vegetable or chicken stock and add chopped parsley.

Cook until the first amount of liquid is absorbed then start gradually adding ladles of hot stock, one at a time, allowing the liquid to be absorbed before adding more.

Cook on a medium heat, stirring almost constantly, until the rice is cooked al dente, meaning fully cooked but still a bit firm when bitten, it should roughly take between 15 -18 minutes for a risotto to be cooked.

Add the tips of the asparagus a few minutes before the end of cooking time.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with sea salt, but this might not be necessary since the stocks that come from the store generally speaking are salty already!

Serve immediately while the risotto is still hot and rather liquidy.

Ladle the risotto onto the plates, sprinkle with freshly grated Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese and garnish with some roughly chopped fresh parsley.

Just a thought

For even creamier texture, you can finish cooking the asparagus risotto with a typical Italian mantecare phase. Remove the saucepan from the heat, add grated cheese and a bit of cold butter or cream to the risotto when is almost finished and stir with a wooden spoon quite vigorously in order to develop that delicious creamy texture.

Dandelion Salad with hard boiled eggs, boiled potatoes and crispy pancetta Recipe

This very healthy and nutritious but incredibly tasty salad is made from young and tender dandelion leaves and enriched with hard boiled eggs, cooked potatoes and crispy pancetta that give us extra energy for the long spring walks in the nature and for completing all those chores in the garden and inside the house.

This salad can also easily become vegetarian and vegan friendly by simply omitting some of the ingredients.

Dandelion leaves, with their verdant colour, can be eaten cooked (customary on the Slovenian coast) or raw, they have a pleasant bitter taste, a bit like peppery rocket salad, and they should be picked small and tender before the plant blooms, then they turn seriously bitter.

When foraging for dandelion try to avoid the areas close to busy roads, lanes popular with dog walkers (no need to go into too much detail as to why), and fields close to farms that have potentially been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers and antibiotics which get absorbed into the plant.

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To pick dandelion you can use a small knife and cut around the plant root and then pull it out of the ground or just simply tear the leaves off the plant.

Dandelion is very rich in vitamins and minerals, very good for our body, and yes it might be a bit bitter, but it is this bitter substance in the dandelion leaves that helps to optimise the function of the gallbladder and the liver. They contain a lot of potassium which is very beneficial for the kidneys, and iron which enriches our blood and helps to purify it. .

This is of no coincidence since dandelion salad is very popular in early spring (around Easter), not only because this is the right time to pick the leaves, but also because this salad is also traditionally eaten with eggs, a symbol of purity, rebirth, and rejuvenation.

In Slovenia, where I come from, picking dandelion leaves in spring time during long walks and returning home with a free lunch or dinner is a great pastime, and almost an obsession.

But there is another tradition that is deeply rooted and much anticipated, especially with the children. It is colouring and decorating Easter eggs, and lots of them, they would be beautifully displayed in small wicker baskets and than used, yes, you guessed it, in the dandelion salad and of course other dishes.

I am sharing here the family recipe, that includes the use of crunchy pancetta or ocvirki (very commonly used in Slovenia, they are small pork cracklings in lard, usually home made, kept in glass jars in the fridge).

A small amount (about 2Tbsp) of pork cracklings in lard will be placed in a small frying pan and warmed up, by doing so, the lard melts and the cracklings get very crunchy, all of this would then be added to the dandelion salad substituting the oil and the pancetta.

If you never have this salad before, try it and play around with the ingredients to suit your taste, keep the ingredients you like and omit the ones you are less keen on. You can also forage a smaller amount of dandelion leaves than indicated in this recipe and mix with other salad leaves.

Have a go and make this super salad, next time you look at the dandelion you will not see it as a annoying weed...

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 100-150g freshly picked young dandelion leaves, trimmed and picked through

• 4 eggs, hard boiled

• potatoes (about 400g) cooked and peeled (you can use baby potatoes or new potatoes with the skin on)

• 150g pancetta rashers (sliced pancetta) or streaky bacon, smoked or unsmoked

• extra virgin olive oil (or other type if prefer)

• vinegar (I used balsamic vinegar, you can use red or white wine vinegar or cider vinegar works well too)

• 1 clove of garlic, peeled and very finely chopped, optional (I did not use garlic I this recipe)

• sea salt

• black pepper

Method

Start by preparing all the ingredients needed for the salad.

Place the potatoes in a pot, cover with water, bring to boil and simmer until cooked.

Cut pancetta rashers or streaky pancetta into small pieces, place them in a small pan and gently fry until very crisp. Remove them from the pan, and place on to kitchen paper so they can drain, and the excess fat can be absorbed. Let the rashers cool and set them aside.

Cook the eggs in a small pan of simmering water until hard boiled, cool, peel and cut into quarters.

Clean dandelion leaves, wash and dry thoroughly (use salad spinner if you have one).

Wine suggestion

Collio Friulano DOC 2021 - Pighin

Braised Fennel Istrian Recipe

Braised fennel is made with fresh fennel bulbs, a humble and very often underrated and forgotten vegetable, and if you were ever put off by maybe a slightly “assertive” liquorice taste of a raw fennel, try this dish, it is like eating a completely different vegetable.

Fennel, during braising process, becomes mellow and sweet, very tender, and develops soft and mild aniseed and slightly caramelized flavour, sincerely gorgeous!

For this dish, perhaps, we can apply the famous saying “do not judge the book by its cover.”

With its appearance, maybe it does not belong to the privileged club of the most appealing looking dishes, but the taste of braised fennel is simply luxurious and elegant, worthy to be served as a part of Sunday roast.

Back home, on the Slovenian coast, where I come from, braised fennel is a very popular, very much loved dish and served with dignity for a simple midweek lunch or dinner.

Here I am sharing my mother's recipe for a traditional and regional braised fennel recipe. Try it, and next time you are shopping for your vegetables, you will be reaching out for fresh fennel...

Ingredients

Serves 4 as part of meal

• few fresh fennel bulbs (1200g approximately)

• 5 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil (the best you can afford)

• sea salt

• black pepper

• fresh flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped

• 100ml water or vegetable stock

Method

Wash fennel bulbs under cold running water and dry them with clean kitchen paper or towel. Place the bulbs on the chopping board and trim the hard hollow stalks which are quite tough and very fibrous. You can discard the stalks or put in the compost, or trim the stalks, cut them into pieces and use them instead of, or as an addition to the celery in soups and stews, or use them as a bed for roasted chicken, or other meats, and roasted fish.

Cut the feathery fronds from the stalks, you can use these as a garnish for this dish, or as a herb to make others dishes. Trim off the root end of the the bulb (the base of the fennel bulb) and cut it into wedges.

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The layers may separate and fall apart, do not worry, this is normal.

Put extra virgin olive oil in a large frying pan, preferably non stick, and heat it up a bit.

Place the fennel wedges into a pan.

Add a pinch of sea salt and sauté for few minutes on a fairly high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown in colour.

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Add 100ml of water, black pepper, lower the heat to fairly low, cover with the lid.

Cook on a gentle heat for about 40 minutes, then uncover the lid.

Turn the heat to medium and cook further uncovered until all the water evaporates.

At this stage the fennel might catch a bit and turn slightly mushy, oozy and creamy in the middle.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with sea salt and black pepper.

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Add a sprinkle of fresh chopped parsley for extra flavour and some fennel fronds for garnish.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

Just a thought

This dish freezes very well, so it might be a good idea to cook in bigger quantities when the fennel is in season and freeze it.

Venetian style Sardines in Savor (Marinated Fried Sardines)

Marinated sardines is a classic and quintessentially Venetian dish, where sardines are lightly fried and then marinated in onion and vinegar mixture. It is prepared and found on Venetian menus (Sarde in saòr) where typical humble dishes are served all year round The name of the dish comes from the Venetian word saòr, meaning sapore in standard Italian, which translates as flavour, and refers to the fact that the flavour of the marinated fish is elevated by the use of good quality wine vinegar.

This dish originated simply out of necessity, when the catch of the fish was particularly abundant and plentiful, people had to figure out how to preserve food to be able to eat it for days without going bad, as the refrigeration had not yet been invented.

This Venetian dish in origin is also very popular and became a staple dish along the coast of the Slovenian Istra, where local gastronomy was strongly shaped and influenced by the Venetian cuisine, and this is of no surprise, as this land was once part of The Republic of Venice who “left behind” the recipe for marinated sardines and enriched the food habits of the locals, who refer to this dish as Sardele in savor (Sardele na šavor in standard Slovenian) and serve it as a cold starter or sometimes as main. It is made all year round but particularly pleasant to eat cold during the hot summer months due to its refreshing taste.

Unlike the Venetian variety of this dish, Istrian marinated sardines do not include the use of pine nuts or raisins, testimony to the introduction of expensive and unusual ingredients in noble Venice due to a its strong trading activity with the East.

More humble and poorer Istrian variation, to offer extra flavour to this dish, introduced the use of fresh parsley and Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and bay leaves growing in abundance along the coast, instead of pine nuts and raisins, difficult to find and expensive, and therefore out of reach for most households. This variation also introduced the use of red wine vinegar, home made and produced in most households, instead of white wine vinegar, type of vinegar solely used in Venetian recipe.

This dish is customarily made with sardines (small ones are particularly suitable) but can be made with other types of fish like sprats, called papaline (Venetian word) by the locals and mackerel being most popular and most common alternative to sardines, and fillets of more prestigious fish like sea bream and sea bass can also be considered.

Once, this was food for the poor, nowadays is a delicacy and a speciality very much appreciated for their unique flavour and highly valued for nutritional content, especially in Slovenian Istra, where, unlike in Venice, this dish, although very traditional in the area, is not easily available in the restaurants, but almost exclusively made in the households.

My nona told me a lovely story, when she was only twenty two years old and got married she moved into the house, where she still currently lives, not very far away from the sea, and during the hot summer nights, the windows would be kept wide open in the hope to get some fresh breeze from the sea to cool the bedrooms to make it easier to sleep.

She could very clearly hear, in the middle of the night, the sound of very small fishing boats leaving the port and going out in the open sea to fish, this is the sound that she remembers as a very special and nostalgic one, and this is because she can no longer hear these sounds, as the majority of those small boats were replaced by only few commercial bigger fishing boats. These days they struggle for a few big catches since over the years the the sea has been depleted of fish. Sadly, fishing has become very difficult and complicated, and so is not very appealing to the younger generations.

I am sharing here my nona's recipe, this is the dish she grew up with, and the one she recalls was also made by her grandmother. This is a traditional, local and authentic family recipe for Istrian style marinated sardines. However, if you wish to “jazz up” this recipe a bit, and make it more “noble” and Venetian, you can add 50g of pine nuts and 50g raisins (previously soaked in lukewarm water for few minutes to help them become more plump).

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

• 1 kg very fresh sardines, cleaned (scaled, gutted, heads and central bone removed and butterflied)

  (ask fishmonger to prepare them for you if uncomfortable with the task)

• all purpose flour (quantity enough to flour the sardines)

• 400 ml frying oil

• 5 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 500 g onions, peeled and thinly sliced

• 5 whole black peppercorns

• 1 Tbsp white dry breadcrumbs

• 100 ml white or red wine vinegar

• 1 bay leaf, fresh or dry

• 1 small fresh rosemary spring

• very generous pinch of fresh flat leaf parsley (about 2g), finely chopped

• sea salt

Method

Cut the heads of the sardines, gut them and remove the central bone. Butterfly the sardines, rinse them well under cold running water and pat dry thoroughly with the kitchen paper.

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Coat them in flour and shake off flour in excess.

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Place frying oil in a frying pan, heat it up and fry gently and quickly the sardines, 2 minutes on each side is sufficient. They should have a light, not very crunchy, coating coating.

Drain well on a kitchen paper.

Season well with sea salt and set aside.

Peel the onions and slice them thinly.

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In a separate frying pan, ideally non stick, put extra virgin olive oil and heat a bit.

Add the onions and cook them on a very gentle heat until they become very soft and translucent, stirring often to avoid getting too brown.

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Add black peppercorns, breadcrumbs, bay leaf, small fresh rosemary spring, finely chopped fresh flat leaf parsley.

Pour in wine vinegar and enough water to completely cover the onion mixture.

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Cook the onion and vinegar mixture on a gentle heat for about 20 minutes. The sauce should slightly thicken and reduce a little, but you should still be left with quite a bit of liquid.

If too much liquid has evaporated during the cooking add a bit more water.

Take a serving dish and alternate layers of onions in the vinegar mix and fried sardines.

Repeat the process of layering until the dish is full. The number of layers will depend on the size of your serving dish but the last layer should be onion and vinegar mix.

If you are left with a bit of vinegary liquid from the onion mixture just pour it over the layers.

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Place the dish in a fridge or a cool place for at least 24 hours or a couple of days, so the sardines marinate well and absorb all the flavours.

The longer you leave to marinate the better it will taste, but bare in mind that the fish will keep for up to a week.

Wine Suggestion

Collio Sauvignon Doc 2020 Draga

Home made Baked Beans Istrian Recipe

Home made baked beans is one of the most humble staple dishes in Slovenian Istra, the peninsula located at the head of the Adriatic Sea. This dish is nutritious, as full of fibre and protein, wholesome, super delicious, cheap and simple to make, and what it may lack in appearance it most certainly makes up in flavour.

This dish is classic comfort food, quintessentially rustic, a truly peasant food since it used to be made by farmers during colder months to help them to get warm, and to partially replenish their energy used up during the very hard, physical and laborious jobs required in the fields during the day.

This borlotti beans casserole is made with beautifully caramelized onions and sautéed pancetta and flavoured with garlic, bay leaf and a touch of tomato paste, it is typically served with polenta or crusty bread and a fantastic companion to grilled meats.

My nona grew up with this dish, as borlotti beans were consistently cooked as a part of the Mediterranean diet, the recipe was passed down to my father who adored baked beans and would prepare them regularly when there was a family barbecue, normally in such a huge quantities that we would eat them on a toasted bread for days to follow, nobody seemed to mind or complained about it, on the contrary...

This home made baked beans are known in standard Slovenian as Praženi Fižol, but the locals would refer to this dish simply in the dialect as Pražen Fežu.

This very traditional dish calls for dry borlotti beans, but you can use canned beans to cut down on time without compromising the deliciousness of the final dish, it can also be made with or without the meat component, in which case, this version makes an excellent vegetarian and vegan meal option.

I am sharing here the traditional, local family recipe which uses only few simple ingredients, however, you can take this dish slightly off the beaten track and jazz it up a bit by adding few chilli flakes or powdered sweet or smoked Hungarian paprika, which will give a more “Imperial” and “Balcanic” flavour. My father attempted this only once and was severely told off by his mother, my famous nona, for “corrupting” the traditional recipe making it too “exotic” for her to eat, this version of baked beans, although very delicious indeed, was never cooked again by my father in her presence...

Whether you go for a traditional or more exotic version of the recipe for home made baked beans, give it a go, a store bought tinned baked beans might just become a thing of a past...

Ingredients

Serves 6-8

• 500g dry borlotti beans, (or other dry beans of your choice) soaked overnight or for about 8 hours

  For this recipe you can also use tinned borlotti beans or other tinned beans of your choice 4 x 400g)

• 1 medium onion, (about 130g) finely chopped

• 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

• 100g pancetta, (smoked or unsmoked) thinly sliced and chopped

• You can replace pancetta for smoked or unsmoked bacon or lardons

• 1 Tsp white all purpose flour

• 2 Tbsp tomato paste

• 2 bay leaves (fresh or dry)

• sea salt

• black pepper

Method

Place dry borlotti beans, or other dry beans of your choice, in a big bowl, cover completely with plenty of cold water and soak for about 8 hours or overnight.

Drain soaked beans in a colander and rinse with cold running water.

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Transfer soaked beans in a pot.

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Add plenty of cold water, to completely cover the beans, a bay leaf and bring to boil.

Turn the heat down to medium-low and cook the beans for about 1 -1 ½ hour or until the beans are fully cooked and soft but not falling apart. Skim any foam if it rises to the surface. Towards the end of cooking time add sea salt.

Fish out the bay leaf and discard. Turn the heat off, leaving the pot with the beans in their liquid on the stovetop for later use.

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Put extra virgin olive oil in a fairly large and deep skillet or casserole dish (both preferably non stick). Add finely chopped onion, crushed garlic, finely sliced and chopped pancetta or similar, if using, and sauté on a gentle heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions become soft and translucent.

Add the flour and stir well with the onion, garlic and pancetta mixture.

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With the slotted spoon, (or a regular big serving spoon) transfer the beans to the skillet with the onion, garlic and pancetta mixture.

Pour the liquid from the beans into the skillet to completely cover the beans. If you are left with more liquid from the beans as needed at this stage, keep it aside and do not discard it. You might use it later on, if the beans during the cooking process get too dry. On the contrary, if you end up using all the liquid from the beans, and the beans get too dry, you can simply use water.

Add sea salt, black pepper, bay leaf, tomato paste and bring to a gentle boil.

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Lower the heat and gently simmer for about 30 minutes stirring occasionally.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with sea salt and black pepper.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

Just a thought

Home made baked beans are suitable for freezing.

Wine suggestion

Schiava Alto Adige DOC "Kolbenhofer" 2020 - Hofstater

Salted Cod in tomato sauce Istrian Recipe

Salted Cod in tomato sauce Istrian Recipe

This main, fish based dish is absolutely delicious and very special! It is rustic but delicate and elegant at the same time - cod is cooked in a simple tomato sauce enriched with onions, garlic, and fresh parsley. It is very easy to make but it does require a bit of organization and planning ahead since it is traditionally prepared with dried stockfish or salted cod that needs to be soaked and hydrated, although in this recipe you have the option to use fresh cod or similar.

This recipe is a real classic holiday and festive dish in Slovenian Istra, and holds a very special place among the locals. Dried stockfish was once a food for the poor but nowadays is a staple dish and considered a delicacy taking central stage on household tables during Christmas and Easter as it is cooked on holy days during the fasting from meat.

Dried stockfish was introduced in Istria in 15th century from Venetian cuisine, and this should not be surprising since the Venetians established a monopoly in the Adriatic Sea.

The origins of this fish, however, is far away from being local dish. It can be traced to the extreme north of Norway, to the Lofoten Islands where the Vikings, most probably the earliest inhabitants of the area, had to find a solution to the perpetual problem of hunger. They fished enormous cod shoals, then they dried the headed and gutted fish in the strong winds of the north, hanging them by their tails, the fish turned as hard as a plank of wood and it would last for a very, very long time.

This dried fish eventually started to be sold by the Norwegians to the rest of Europe, sometime in the eleven century. Gastronomically speaking, and perhaps surprisingly, dried stockfish has not been particularly well appreciated by the Scandinavians. On the contrary, in the Mediterranean countries, stockfish became an elevated dish, it was highly valued, and much more appreciated.

The biggest consumers of dry cod, just to mention a few, are Italy, Spain, Portugal, Brazil, West Africa, Caribbean, and many other countries.

Local people back home, on the Slovenian coast, are very traditional and conservative when it comes to the choice of the ingredients and cooking, therefore the use of dried stockfish would be the first choice to prepare this dish. The use of less traditional salted pieces of cod would be the second choice influenced mainly by simplicity, practicality and speed, and this is the type of cod I I use for this recipe.

In the recipe description below I am also giving you the option to use fresh cod or a similar fish, if you have difficulty finding dried stockfish, salted cod or pre-soaked cod, or simply prefer to use fresh fish instead.

Here, in the United Kingdom, where I currently live, you can find and buy dried stockfish or salted cod (sold vacuum packed) in Italian delicatessen shops especially around Christmas and Easter or alternatively order it from your trusted fishmonger or from an on-line specialist shop.

I am sharing here this very special family festive recipe in honour of my father, who very sadly is no longer with us, and who absolutely adored preparing and enjoying this dish.

At the start of Christmas season, my father would buy dried stockfish, soaked it, cooked it, removed the skin and all the bones to be left with bite size pieces that would get vacuum packed and I would take the pack on the plane back to the UK...

Ingredients

• 500g salted cod or about 800g of already pre-soaked cod (soaked and rehydrated cod almost doubles its original weight) Both varieties are sold vacuum packed in form of fillets with no bones.

  (can use about 800g of fresh cod fillets or similar like haddock or pollock instead)

  Whole stockfish (unsalted, dry cod) is traditionally used for this recipe.

• white flour (for coating the fish)

• 2 Tbsp extra virgin oil

• 1 medium onion (about 140g) finely chopped

• 1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

• 1 handful of fresh flat leaf parsley (about 12g)

• 250g plum or other types of tomatoes (when in season), quartered or chopped. Use tomato passata, tinned chopped or plum tomatoes as alternative.

• sea salt, if needed

Method

Serves 4

How you start this recipe will really depend on what type of cod you have.

1. If you have salted cod (I used this type for the recipe) first you need to rinse well the salted cod under very cold running water. Place rinsed cod in an airtight container, fill it completely with freezing cold water, and with some ice, if you have it, so the fillets are completely submerged. Close the lid and put the container in the fridge. Change the water after 24 hours and place in the fridge for another day. After 48 hours, the cod will be completely soaked. Remove the cod from the container, rinse well with cold water and tap dry with kitchen paper. Cut the fillet in portion size.

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2. You can buy (a bit trickier to find, at least in the United Kingdom) already soaked and rehydrated cod. In this case just rinse with running cold water, tap dry and cut in portion size.

3. You can simply use fresh cod or similar like haddock or pollock fillets and cut it into portion size.

4. You can buy a whole dried stockfish. This could prove the trickiest option as the stock fish might be quite long and you need quite a big stock pot to fit it in, fill completely with very cold water and soak for at least 3 days, changing the water every day. If you do not have a very big pot to fit the whole stockfish you can use a smaller pot, like a regular 5 litre stock pot, and then place the stockfish in a pot, half of it will probably stick out, and half will be submerged in the water. Soak the submerged part of stockfish for 24 hours and after this time the soaked part of the stockfish will get soft enough to bend, which will allow you to bend it in a such a way for the whole stockfish to be completely submerged into the water in order to get properly rehydrated.

No need for rinsing as the dried stockfish is not salted. Soaked and rehydrated cod needs then to be cooked until tender, for about 1 hour or just over. When is cooked take the skin off and remove all the bones. You are left with portion size or smaller bite size piece ready to be used for this recipe.

Very lightly coat the pieces of cod in flour and shake off the excess.

Place oil in a pan (the pan should be big enough so all the pieces of cod are nicely tucked next to each other and do not overlap).

Add finely chopped onions, crashed garlic and sauté very gently until soft.

Place chopped tomatoes or passata in a pan and cook further for about 10 minutes stirring occasionally. If using fresh tomatoes make sure they are soft and use the back of a fork to squash a bit.

Place cod pieces in a tomato sauce, add finely chopped parsley and enough water to almost cover the cod fillets. If using fresh cod add the water half way up as it cooks quicker.

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Partially cover with the lid and on a gentle heat cook for about 40 minutes, shaking the pan now and again. If using fresh cod the cooking time will be slightly reduced.

After this time you should end up with the velvety sauce that is not too thick nor too thin and liquidy.

If the the sauce, however, is too thin sprinkle a bit of flour or breadcrumbs and cook further briefly until you get the desired consistency.

Contrary, if the sauce gets too thick dilute it with a bit of water.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with sea salt especially if preparing this dish using dried stockfish or fresh fish. If using salted cod you will most probably not need any extra sea salt for seasoning, as although the fish gets soaked and desalinated, the fish still retains some of the salt, and this gets released during cooking.

Just a thought

This dish is traditionally served with soft cooked polenta or some crunchy bread to soak up the sauce.

Salted cod in tomato sauce can also be eaten with the pasta of your choice or it can be used as a base to make a risotto.

This dish will keep well in the fridge for few days in an airtight container and is suitable for freezing.

Wine suggestion

Pinot Bianco DOC 2020- Doro Princic

Sautéed courgettes with onions and parsley recipe

I simply love cooking with courgettes, this humble vegetable is divine and incredibly versatile.

Courgettes are fantastic when grilled, fried, roasted, used raw in salads, but sautéed courgettes with onions and fresh parsley must be the method I most often return to when cooking with courgettes, as it is a classic side dish to accompany just about any main course.

This is a rustic dish and offers a great deal more than meets the eyes. My mother made this dish on a weekly basis, especially during late spring and summer when they are in season.

In this recipe, the courgettes are slow-cooked until they become creamy, golden in colour and silky in texture, with sweet and caramelized taste.

Courgettes cooked in this way originate from the Italian recipe Zucchine trifolate, where trifolare in Italian simply means a method of preparing vegetables with onions or garlic or both, olive oil, and fresh parsley until they are thoroughly cooked and soft.

And once again, the proximity to Italy of my homeland and the mild climate offering the courgettes in abundance when in season, would explain the popularity of this dish.

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Courgettes prepared this way, would most commonly be served as a hot side dish for grilled, barbecued or roasted meat or fish dishes or used as a base for risotto, frittata or omelette or simply stirred through pasta.

Fantastic used in savoury pies and served in a less traditional way, for example stirred through couscous or with jacket potatoes.

At room temperature or cold are a great addition to an antipasti selection and fantastic spooned onto bruschetta with fresh chopped basil or mint if it's summertime.

Ingredients

Serves 4-6 as part of meal

• 1 kg courgettes (4-6 courgettes roughly, depending on the size)

• 1 onion (about 150g), finely chopped (you can use garlic instead if prefer or use both)

• 4-5 Tbsp (about 15g) fresh flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

• 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 100 ml vegetable stock (you can use good quality instant vegetable stock or water), optional if you prefer a less creamier consistency as an end result.

• sea salt

Method

Wash the courgettes under cold running water, dry them a bit, place them on a chopping board, cut off the tops and the bottoms. Cut the courgettes in half and then slice them in half lengthwise.

Slice the courgettes, you should get half moon shaped pieces.

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In a large, wide pan put the extra virgin olive oil, heat it a bit, add the onions and sauté them on a fairly low heat for about 10-15 minutes, stirring constantly until the onions become soft and translucent.

Add the courgettes and parsley, sauté them on a medium-low heat for about 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally to stop them from sticking to the bottom of the pan. By now, almost all the water should evaporate, the courgettes should get softer and start breaking down a bit.

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Add vegetable stock or water and cook further for about 25-30 minute on a gentle heat, stirring occasionally now and again.

After this time, the water should be completely evaporated, courgettes broken down and soft, but most probably with not much colour.

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Season with sea salt to taste, increase the heat, and cook the courgettes for few more minutes, so they get a bit of a colour. At this stage, they might start to catch a bit and this is exactly what should happen. If they are still not getting the colour, increase the heat a bit and stir them a little more if needed.

The dish is ready when the courgette pieces are golden around the edges and oozy and creamy in the middle.

Just a thought

It is quite common to add a pinch of red chilli flakes for extra kick.

Sautéed courgettes freeze very well, so it might be a good idea to cook in bigger quantities when the courgettes are in season and freeze them.

Octopus Salad recipe

This dish, with its simplicity, evokes those truly Mediterranean flavours, and has that real Mediterranean feel about it. It has always been incredibly popular and a real success every time it was served, be it at home or in the restaurant where it has been on the menus since I was a child, and has never gone out of fashion. Needles to say, it is one of my favourite dishes, and it is also a family favourite too!

My parents would prepare this dish over and over again and it does evoke some heart worming memories. My grandfather or my dad would go to the fish market and returned home with a full bag of octopus to clean and cook. They would display it on the kitchen table and I was really fascinated by the animal itself just admiring its long tentacles. Now to think back, it was a great biology lesson.

Octopus salad is a very simple but delicious and healthy way to eat octopus. You can eat it on its own just simply dressed or over the bed of fresh rocket salad. Traditionally you would have a nice fresh crunchy piece of bread to pick up the dressing and a glass of chilled wine to further elevate the dish, and this is exactly how my husband loves to eat it. Everyday troubles just somehow seem to disappear, at least for a while.

This tasty octopus salad can be eaten all year round, although having it as a cold salad on a hot summer's day is quite a refreshing treat.

There are a lot of stories of how you should cook the octopus to have it really nice and tender. I always cook it in the evening, then turn the heat off and leave it to cool overnight in its own liquid. The following day is wonderfully tender and surely cool enough to clean and dress.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• fresh octopus, cleaned (about 1kg in weight) Most fishmongers will be happy to clean it for you.

  1 stick of celery

  1 carrot washed and peeled

  1 small onion, peeled

  1 fresh or dry bay leaf

  5 whole black peppercorns

  1 clove of garlic, peeled

  4 Tbsp (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

  7g fresh parsley (plus some extra to be finely chopped and sprinkled over the salad)

  juice of 1 lemon (optional)

  sea salt, to taste

  freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  a splash of white vinegar (optional)

Method

To make a dressing, take a small bowl and add extra virgin olive oil, roughly chopped garlic and roughly chopped parsley, lemon juice (if using), a pinch of sea salt and a bit of freshly ground black pepper. Leave the dressing for at least 1 hour for all the flavours to develop.

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Wash the cleaned octopus under the cold running water and put it in a large pot together with celery stick, carrot, onion, bay leaf, peppercorns. Fill the pot with cold water enough to completely cover and bring to boil. Turn down the heat and simmer with the lid covered for about 1 hour or until the octopus is cooked and fork tender.

Remove the octopus from the pot and let it cool for a bit until you find the temperature of the octopus manageable. Out of habit and simplicity, I always cook the octopus in the evening and leave it to cool overnight in its own liquid.

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Clean the cooked octopus with your hands by sliding the darkish pink layer off the tentacles and the body of the octopus. This should feel very similar to when you roast the peppers and you take the skin off. You should be left with a nice pinkish white meat.

Cut the cleaned octopus head in cubes and tails in slices roughly about 1 square cm in size. Put the octopus in a bowl ready to be dressed.

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Sieve the dressing over the bowl with the octopus and adjust seasoning with sea salt and pepper. Add more extra virgin olive oil if you think the dish is a bit too dry and sprinkle with fresh finely chopped flat parsley. For freshness you can add a splash of white wine vinegar, a squeeze of lemon juice or a combination of both. Mix and serve.

Just a thought

You can serve dressed octopus over the bed of fresh rocket salad.

With a dressed octopus you can also create a more substantial salad and serve it as a main dish by adding for example chopped celery sticks, some sweet cherry vine tomatoes, cold boiled potato cut in smaller pieces, black olives and finely sliced red onion.

A lovely idea to serve octopus salad is to put it on a serving dish, together with smaller plates consisting of sun dried tomatoes, a mixture of olives, different types of Mediterranean vegetables in olive oil and for sure plenty of rustic crunchy bread.

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Wine suggestion

Malvasia ZGP 2016 by Hedele, Vipavska Dolina.